Owning a dyno comes with an unwritten responsibility. The average person would see a dyno facility and rightfully assume that the shop can tune cars on it. Well, that would generally be true. Not always, but probably 85% of the time. The question is "what cars?"
We see it daily on social media threads: "I'd NEVER do an email tune...it's a dyno tune or nothing for me!"
Two things that those types don't consider. First, not all email tunes should be considered "canned". Granted, the vast majority are, but that's where Venomous Tuning is different. More on this in a minute. Second, they're assuming that Mr Dyno is a specialist in mod motor Fords. Mmmmm, probably not.
How about a fully custom tune by a specialist and still get it "dyno tuned" at your local dyno? We do that all the time.
Remote dyno tuning is what we feel is the best option for our Stage 2 (blower upgrade) cars but it's a great idea for simple mods as well. Here's why:
1. 2007-2010 GT500s are "narrow band" cars, meaning they don't have the ability to read O2 data and fuel itself properly at any time other than idle and cruise. It starts in "Cold Start", which is running off a commanded table of data (ie a little richer than normal) until the front O2s heat up and start scanning. Once they're active, the car is in "closed loop" and the short term fuel trims dictate how much longer or shorter the injectors stay open to achieve a prescribed air/fuel ratio. BUT....at 1/2 throttle, you're back into open loop at the mercy of the components and the tuner to deliver a proper prescribed air/fuel ratio. For most GT500s, we like .80 Lambda at wide open throttle. That's 80% of the Stoichiometry of a given fuel. It's preferred to use Lambda rather than air/fuel ratio because it doesn't care what a fuel's "stoich" is. Examples: 80% of 14.08 (10% ethanol and how your car is tuned from the factory) equals an air/fuel ratio of 11.2:1 or 11.2 parts air to 1 part gas to give that particular fuel it most efficient and clean burn. For pure gas, which has a Stoich value of 14.67, that same .80 Lambda gives us a still-safe air fuel ratio of 11.7:1 at "WOT". By the way, the monitor at the dyno facility will be calibrated to 14.67, not Ford's 14.08.
2011+ cars are "wideband" and operate in "closed loop" at all times, making adjustments on the fly even at wide open throttle. Thus the car will show us "measured air fuel in Lambda" on a datalog, without a dyno. But, see part 2.
THIS IS EXACTLY WHY WE INSIST ON A DYNO SESSION WITH WIDEBAND AIR/FUEL MEASUREMENT OR AN AFTERMARKET WIDEBAND MUST BE INSTALLED ON ALL 2007-2010 GT500's FOR WIDE OPEN THROTTLE OPERATION! NO EXCEPTIONS!
2. Safety and consistency. Let's face it, hauling butt down a backroad at full throttle with a laptop in the other seat isn't exactly the smartest thing to do. BUT, there are some customers who simply are not within a 5 hour drive of a dyno, but this is rare. We help find them near you, contact them for you so they feel good about remote tuning and so we can communicate our expectations for them.
We get countless numbers of customers who order a tune, and get a base file within 48 hours, only to not use it for weeks! Family, work, weather, etc. There's always something. If you go to a dyno, we actually log in and run the session LIVE via a screen share so we can normally knock out a full tune in less than 2 hours. The national average for dyno rental is about $150/hr. So, plan on adding $300 to your total tuning bill.
Remote Dyno Tuning is about the same cost as me sitting in your car on the roller. For example, our Stage 2 tuning (blower upgrades) start at $649. For that, we send you a startup file, get online and do a screen share with you at home and dial in idle and part throttle right in your driveway. This assures that you don't have mechanical surprises on the dyno...which will cost you while you're on the drum, doing nothing....plus we have the basics done. This takes an hour. Now we go to the dyno. There's your additional $300 that brings us equal to having me in your car. which will be about a grand provided there are no mechanical issues.
Once at the dyno, we do one "start and idle, slow rev in neutral" to confirm what we've already done. Then we do a short wide open throttle pull to dial in midrange fueling. Next pull is to our agreed upon limit and we dial in the top end fueling.
Now we know it's correct and it's time to add spark advance. We carefully add timing to the point that we know is generally acceptable on like-year cars with the same mods (or very close). 2007-2009 cars do not have knock sensors. 2010-2014 do, but they can't be depended upon. They are microphones trained on specific frequencies that unfortunatly come from things other than a piston rattling up a hole. So we look for what the knock sensors tell us, but confirm the old school ways, with examination of spark plugs and, when able, knock stethoscopes.
In the end, when you choose a Venomous Tuning Remote Dyno Tune, you get our expertise, knowledge, amazing customer service and can do it without the hassle of long travel times, weather issues and more. You will not make more power by "leaning out" the system nor adding more timing, because the air/fuel will be correct and the timing correct for your fuel.
We hope this helps explain our process and why remote dyno tuning can be superior to remote street tuning (safety most of all) and why an "email tune" isn't a bad thing at all.